For some poor souls, El Paso of Howth Co. Dublin, is a mere restaurant. To those of us in the know, however, it is a place of worship. A Temple. Let me explain.

In 1994, Annraoi Blaney, having served his time in a number of "name" restaurants, decided to go it alone. The task he set himself, which culminated in the opening of El Paso, was to establish the ultimate dining experience. Fine, but accessible, Tex-Mex tucker to be served up in an authentic and colourful environment with a boisterous but jovial atmosphere as if borrowed from a pub in full swing. The pièce de resistance, however, was to be what really separated the men from the boys - The Sauce.

Dublin Live and a comrade entered the restaurant, set in a three-storey Victorian building, in giddy anticipation. We had dragged along a friend with a view to conversion. "A new soul for the faith", we announced, presenting our friend for the amusement of the staff, who led us to our usual table outside. (A recent addition to the restaurant is a fully heated, outdoor canopied deck, a fine place to find oneself of a Sunday afternoon).

For starters, after ordering a round of beers (full bar license!), we tucked into a large bowl of warm, crisp tortilla chips, accompanied by a selection of tangy condiments. We scoffed this tasty distraction with gusto and settled back to await our destiny. Our main courses arrived; chicken enchiladas served on a bed of fragrant rice with the usual toppings of melted cheese, soured cream and salsa. In the centre of the table were placed three sinister black cauldrons, the contents, a substance not unlike lava, bubbling over, eating through the table.* It was the sauce.

The late American comedian, Bill Hicks, liked to believe that God had peppered the Earth with magical objects, mushrooms to be precise - their purpose being to accelerate evolution and enlightenment in those that chose to partake. A habanero, yesterday: approach with caution Anyone who has ever visited Amsterdam and witnessed the actual toll wreaked by this psychoactive fungus on the minds of those who take it may take issue with this theory but I think Hicks was on the right trail. So what? You might think, but the mushroom is not alone in that class of plant selected by the forces of nature with the power to erm, disrupt. The real magic, I can now reveal, is contained in a devilish little chile pepper, The Habanero. It is this pepper that is the main ingredient in El Paso's legendary "No. 10" Sauce.

The initiation began. Our virginal friend covered a corner of his plate with a dollop of the sauce and took his first taste. For a few seconds he chewed cautiously and then it happened - Boom! His eyes widened in horror and he cried out in pain, instinctively reaching for his beer. The intense heat of the habanero let itself be known. After this we all took to it with verve. Our fellow diners watched in bemusement as we howled in agony. The only concession we made to the heat were three bowls of soured cream, which performed the miracle of cooling our tortured taste buds. Slightly. Soon the table was quiet as the chilies worked their magic. Behind our blank expressions we were travelling through space and time (possibly), experiencing wild visions and a building euphoria as endorphins (the body's natural opiate) flushed through our systems. Anybody familiar with the "stargate" sequence of 2001: A Space Odyssey might get the picture. We emerged on the other side calm and fulfilled. Our friend had a knowing glint in his eye. He was a convert. But coming back to Earth, if you find all this a bit hard to swallow, I can also tell you the habanero will see off hangovers, the blues, vampires and any other demon you care to mention.

The more tentative souls among you may be thinking that this is a place strictly for the fire eater; not so. Without the No. 10, the meals are only mildy spiced and you can always try starting from the shallow end and working your way through the sauces in numerical order. (Though I really can't stress the pleasure to be had from diving into the deep end.) Also on the menu are a variety of "Tex" dishes with enough steaks, burgers and buffalo wings to keep the John Wayne amongst your party happy.

Finally the staff, servants of the Sauce, while professional and efficient were not afraid to engage us in some friendly banter and were always at hand to offer encouragement and medicinal advice . So if you fancy some top class tucker, with spiritual enlightenment thrown into the bargain (the bill came to €78 for three meals and a couple of rounds of beer) get yourself over to El Paso. Tell them God sent you. *Exaggeration (popular journalistic device)

El Paso can be found in Howth, Co. Dublin, beside the Old Court House on the harbour.

We were three Amigos and we left the hot dusty city behind and headed for El Paso-Yes folks! Tex Mex has come to the Northside of Dublin in the beautiful picturesque village of Howth. El Paso has been a huge success and proprietor Annraoi Blaney tells us that business has exceeded all expectations. Before you embark on this Tex Mex eating experience please ensure that you are absolutely ravenous as the portions are absolutely enormous.

All starters are of the Tex Mex variety and we chose one Nachos-Corn tortilla chips topped with delicious hot cheddar sauce, jalapeno chillis and spring onions- and one of Garlic Mushrooms-deep fried in spicy breadcrumbs on a bed of crisp lettuce and garlic mayonnaise, one Jacket Potatoes-deep fried potato skins topped with cheese, crispy bacon and sour cream, and very good at €6.95 each.

For our main courses we chose Chicken Fajitas, but beef is also available, probably the best we ever had, there were lots of sizzling white chicken with onions, peppers , salad, guacamole, cheese, sour cream and steamed tortillas begging to be filled. My other guest chose Macho Nachos, a bed of refried beans topped with tortillas and served with the lot-guacamole, Mexican rice, salsa, sour cream and cheddar, the beef on this particular dish was excellent. I chose the Chimichanga-a large deep fried tortilla stuffed with spicy beef and cheese-topped wuth sour cream and guacamole, this all had salad and Mexican rice.

As you can imagine, desserts were impossible after all this food but they do carry a very nice range of homemade desserts and ice creams. There is also a good selection of steaks and burgers and always a 'special of the day' meat or fish, cooked to Chef Paul's very own recipe.

We chose a house wine-Rioja Campo Viejo, very good with Tex Mex food at €22.00 a bottle. Two pint pitchers of beer are €10.00. Also Margueritas and Tequila cocktails are excellent.

The window tables are particularly good with a view of Howth fishing pier and the beautiful marina. Do make a reservation to avoid disappointment. The Mexican Hat Dance is definitely not recommended after a meal in El paso. There is car parking available outside and not a Bandito in sight.

(c) In Dublin

Evening

Herald

Thursday March 27 1997

For discerning diners who combine a love of jazz with their fondness for genuine ethnic food there is only one venue: El Paso, on the harbour road. El paso is that rare thing, a genuine Mexican restaurant serving real mexican food, in a real Mexican atmosphere without all the gimmickry and make-believe Mexican music and sombreros which have become a hallmark of chain Mexican restaurants throughout Europe.

El Paso is a real restaurant which manages to create the kind of warm atmosphere more commonly associated with the best kind of pubs. Food is excellent, prices are good, and the craic is ninety!

(c) Evening Herald